Wednesday, 30 January 2013

Month one of nothing

On Saturday I went with Joble over to Roache Abbey, the snow was already melting and soaking into my sneaks as we passed the first gate, each little skid revealing shitty brown mud underneath the snow - it probably was shit being a popular dog walkers path. After a heroic ascent of Beef Buttress Gully (III/IV with pads) it appeared the rock was dry.  Jo was trying the fool (7B+) and I simply acted one, failing to top the unusual 7A Justice,  James linked both of these with some strange and hard moves dealing some Fools Justice (8A). With power tapering off we slid back to the car. 

The scene 
As of late Joble have got really psyched by the Mike Adams and co. Eastern Magnesium Limestone trail and have been seeking out the ever more rare and esoteric. We trudged around crisp white fields and muddy paths in a retreat-from-Moscow style trying to find Earth Quarry. I think because I was tired and it was soaking I wasn't massively impressed but Jo and James were keen as beans. I'll hold my tongue and wait to see it in a better state.
shit isn't that?

Waking up on Sunday it was like we'd all been asleep for a week, all the snow had gone done and get goned. I was walking to the foundry to meet the Barr when Bob Dickish text asking if I was going out. Touched I'd been remembered while busy on his European climbing tour I later found out it was a group text, the scatter bastard. Being with the anti-brown rocks brigade I found myself back at Roache, back on the Beef Buttress. I wish I'd filmed Bob on the 6B, never before has such a strong climber looked so weak, past ascents in doubt etc. Speaking of weak I managed to skirt around my faults and send a new 7A+ in Faith Left-Hand. Jugs and crimps, tits and ass. Finshed the day at a busy foundry, sweaty and shaky climbing but fingers felt good. 

Thursday, 17 January 2013

January, sick and tired, keeps on hanging on me

Too found sand & fur teen, this year has a lot of potential but I just cant bring myself to write. Say what you’ve done, how did it feel, what have you learnt?


Went to Stanage - was cold, moist and I did DIY slab. Learnt that I’m better than last year but not good enough to get my two feet actually off the mat on Shock Horror Slab (use pocket on right for given grade). Oli put a hole in his finger.


Went to Rowtor – Luminous green and scrittly. Learnt that I don’t climb very much when I have my camera out, feels like an excuse to keep gloves/down on. Didn’t go down to My Apple, would have been a waste of time. Tried the Yoghurt bastard, satisfyingly crimpy but just stretched out too much, didn’t even release heel-toe. James nearly hulked out and Mark struggled on jugs.


Went to Almscliffe – muddy and cold. Learnt that I still cant do Syrett’s roof but can do Bancroft’s, happy. Tried Barley Mow and got further than I thought I would, will stay on this longer next time. Dolphin still piss, Gypsy top out still shit. Barrows go-go-gadgeted everything and was humbled by pebble wall.


It’s been a Works month again this month so I’ve been feeling technically proficient but quite weak. The circuits have been changed and feel a lot less painful than the last set, encouraging, though it’s a bit busy at the mo due to an influx of heroes training for training for training for what.


This will be a year of firsts, first 7C (not something short), first Alpine rock tick (Piz Badile), first time in Mallorca, Pembroke, Ariege and Catalonia. First E4. Star wars, hard technical climbing between rests and reasonable gear, yes I’ll have a stab.


As for writing, I don’t know eh, not in the write space right now HARHAR. Filming, ah now filming will be flowing my friend, a lot of the people I know are relatively good climbers so I am excited to show this in the best possible way, even did a time lapse last night (wont be using it much as it’s been overly done really well, it’s just a piece of piss with Magic Lantern). Went insane and bought the kit lens, actually bought it, it was cheap and I’m sort of testing myself. I cant afford a zoom lens with a constant aperture right now so this will have to do.


See ya, fucking hate January.