Tuesday, 17 April 2012

I new it

Went to the Cave on Sunday, big frickin' drive from Sheffield but the new Joble wagon was comfortable. Failed to flash Parisellas Original due to misdirection, then sent the 7A+ bust lip which was good utilising an interesting golf ball feature but didn't feel the grade. spent rest of my time memorizing left wall (this will be my redpoint crux) and failing on Lip Service 7A+ by shunning chris's foot beta (!) and trying the lank method, it will go like this and feels strong.

got a new camera finally. Forgot how little I knew about photography so I'll be nerding up on that. In the meantime I nerded up on colour presets to avoid $$ payout and I'm happy with the results.


Momentum


I have been feeing lazy with regard to this blog but I’ve found some time so can update, this is basically a diary anyway with one avid reader.

I’ve had a more few trips to the Tor since my last post, Friday 30th I finally did Weedkiller at a breezy Tor with Jonny, George and Nathan. It felt like an all too familiar evening when I slapped for the finishing jug and slipped down to earth for the second time but thankfully I had remembered Lockyear’s beta for the last throw, this being an intermediate pinch just below the jug which take the sapping sting out of throw. Next go, through the slots, through the cut loose, lock up, pinch and JUG. Drop off, excited breathlessness and post-send babble interspersed with erratic hand movements and then a happy release as I gain normality again. Bouldering really is straight out a crack pipe, quick hit shit. Jonny failed the flash at the first hard move and soldiered on into night as we climbed with lamp and head torch, however he got too tired and didn’t manage it that evening.  

The rest of my climbing has been at the Tor apart from a quick sojourn at beginners wall, I remember Jo doing Swing time and it feeling really quite hard so was happy to get it done in around 5 goes. Swing Time is a small pinch to a series of big moves on good holds, It’s down to 7A in the new guide from the 7A+ I thought I was heroically smashing in. Jonny did this, Weedkiller and little extra direct, my year’s worth of ticks so far, in a day. Bastard. Man of steel next.

Tuesday night, Chris, Oli and I did the start of Weedkiller into the finish of Basher’s left hand which felt roughly 7A+ but I tried it too many times and lost track of over all difficulties whilst over-involved in the minor nuances of beta. Its great and the moves really flow well into each other. Had a quick group go on Rattle and Hump start and can finally get matched on the crimps, whether I go up from here a la the hard way or go to the flakes out left to press out the finish is the next question. Feels harder than 7A+!!.  Other than that I went to Anston with a bunch of folk over the weekend, did a 6C called Screaming Dream on Hidden Buttress thanks to Beta from Jo which is probably the best problem I have climbed at Anston so far, starting on a tufa, getting correct body positioning into a lovely fat pinch above and dyno for a boss hold finish. Right by the railway sidings is apprentice buttress which has a great 6C+ and soft 7A+, apprentice wall and prow respectively. The prow has a hard slap start where you cross over your head at full stretch for good pocket then easy finish, though this was mired by a wet sidepull. Off to the side is high wall with Whizz Kid on it but I’ll have to ask some folk about the finish as its really high and right next to a chonking great crack you’re not allowed to use. I think Anston is soft, but its great fun feeling like a champ. James did, to put it lightly, a shed load of stuff and his 8a.nu scorecard must have looked like my electric meter.



Im bored of writing now, it appears as I have more successes my desire to lament on here recedes and it becomes grade rubbish. I cant even remember what Cloggy felt like.


NEED TO GET ON ROUTES, NEED TO GET ON ROUTES


After I’ve climbed 7B.