After all this humid shitty summer I have a desire for the crisp snap of a cold morning, the rock freeze dried, moving up smears or sculptured arêtes secure in it's insecurity. I know it's only round the corner so I wont rush, it's just good to know that it's there, waiting to shrug off bracken, midge and misguided punters having the most fun.
So, where have I been? I just couldn't be arsed to write, so I've been reading instead. Brave New World by Huxley. Quite a disgusting book, have a look at this piece of writing that sums up the book for me
Climbing wise I have been ticking over and have generally brought up my level of climbing, I feel far from the feeling of mastery that I so want but the improvement is noticeable.
I had a few attempts, bimbled about on some vertical terrain but never pushed it up to the overhanging tufas. I am excited to go back, maybe as part of a Euro trip, as while it isn't going to be a standout venue it looks amazing for it's location and adventurous nature. Actually I won't say much because I'd like to save it. It's shit really, don't go
Lake Annecy from Guy Van Greuning on Vimeo.
When I came back I went to Kilnsey with Sheffield's most hated blogger Mark, we set off early and having walked 3 miles to his house with 70m rope, draws and kit I was sufficiently knackered. Mark wanted to try Over the Thumb (8a) which sketches it's way across the friable flakes above the 8a classic. Luckily the start of this route involves climbing a 7b called WYSIWYG which I had been on years ago when I was REAL shit. After two redpoints I hadn't done it that day and we scuttled off home both having done nowt, well, Kilnsey wouldn't feel like Kilnsey if that didn't happen at least 90% of the time. That Sunday we trekked back with Jo & James and I managed to crack it off first go of the day, first 7b. I had read that people regarded it as 7b/+ but this appears to be due to how it was originally climbed going direct into the crux whereas nowadays people (me) pop out right to a mega jug and heel hook rest before coming back left into the side-pull crux. Jo flashed Smooth Torquer (7a+/b) following Noble's onsight and after a near deck out flash attempt with a pendulum into Jo I got it first redpoint, the top move is a screamer and the low boulder crux a delight, shame it's not 25m longer. Out of kindness possibly Mark was trying Perfect Storm 7c+ which also shared the 7b start, it looked a bit shit/broken which was as shame as the groove draws the eye. Noble had tried flashing Subculture but climbed ridiculously slow/static, getting it 2nd redpoint he was nearly off the 7b+ finish all the way, good to see the man sweating. We finished the day off with a toppers on face value, an E5 gone the way of training. It scared me how hard it felt and how bold the start was. However scary it would be absolutely amazing to climb on this face with gear and knowing a few friends who have I’m really keen for things like Deja Vu (E5) though they feel a year away at least.
|Mark starting up the Perfect Storm, WYSIWYG finishes at the obviously chunky flake below him|
I went back with Mark on a very hot day, I failed on hardy annual (7b), getting gripped by the groove and pushy end whilst Mark failed on Last Action Hero (8a) which starts up a 7c called Metal Guru I am very interested in i.e. it has a slab on it after a tough start!
|Carl on Metal Guru 7C|
Indoors has been torture. Got to keep going.
Going to try Wild in Me (7c) at the Tor soon hopefully, fully prepared for a shut down but I have the fight in me now, the reality of 7c feels within my grasp. Comedy, New Dawn, Biological Need, Obscene Gesture, they are not impossible for me now.
P.S Sheffield Techno Institute 28th September YESSSSSSSSSSS