Monday, 23 January 2012

helped myself

Did Help The Young as my first 7A+. Thought it was 7A originally, I wonder what it would of felt like if I'd known it was a grade harder. I'll be experimenting with this in future.

Stolen from TommyTwoTone (UKB)

Thursday, 19 January 2012

Stick to the plantation

I went to the works on Saturday after work and tried to do 4x4s, but apparently being hardly able to hold a jug at the top is detrimental to your body’s recovery time. This became evident when I got home as I nearly passed out with a light head at the top of our stairs, a meal was eaten hurriedly and colour returned to my face. The current comp wall set is good, only a few impossible-at-present problems for me and the rest attainable through effort, the fluro yellows on the left hand side stick out as you get to actually harness the barn door to swing you into the final hold. I think I may have given myself whiplash trying to do the worm in my office, im definitely an adult.

Joble succeeded the day after on this lesser known grit arete

Luke on Satin
As James was doing battle with scareless torque we all headed up to the plantation in beautiful dry, cold weather with an overcast sky. It’s a funny thing climbing on the weekend in the Peak, recognising other climbers cars scattered about the various car parks and lay-bys, wondering what their plans are. Spotted Tommy Martini’s car in the car park so knew there would be a Hull contingent present at the plantation which was nice. Crescent arĂȘte finally felt like gritstone and not the side of a London bus. Watching 8c Barrows sketch up this on his reintroduction to the beloved grit was rather funny (he still ticked Danny’s problem though. Bastard). From here a few of us moved on to attempt Dawes’ Satin which I tried in the wet mist last week, managed to get it done first go today using winter sessions beta. Regarding it’s grade I just don’t know as its my only slab graded 7A, however it felt no harder than say Finger distance at Curbar which gets a highball V4. Regard-less it’s totally my bag and I dig that style.  Had a minor play on pressure drop but didn’t try very hard, Adam Long’s beta looks mental, very cool, but mental looking justifying 7C.

My fingers hurt a bit so I took Luke, on his first day out in 8 months, for a wander up the wonderful VS Fairy Steps. From this poor man’s version of the famous ledge on Half Dome I could turn round and look out, Rob Lonsdale had just got Brad Pitt done and Lee Cooper got all locked up for jug only to fall off, both these events caused massive positive/negative noise, think of it as Ondra if he were Yorkshire bread.

rammers with a Bristolian spot

Dr. Tom and some fellow UKBers were up on Help The Young and after spotting Tom up his heroic send I gleamed beta and had a go myself. After some cool gully surfing falls I didn’t manage it but the moves were amazing and I felt good on them so I think this might become my elusive first 7A+ tick.

LTG: sport – 7a+ o/s - 7c RP, boulder - 7B, Grit - E4, Trad - E3  

STG: sport – 6c+ o/s - 7b RP, boulder - 7A+, Grit/Trad – Consolidate 5c

this video below is a test. they are so so SO american but their outlook is inspiring

Saturday, 7 January 2012

Burkchen edge and the Burks

New Years Eve during the day was wet so with Mason, Laura and Steve I went to the Works which was feeling greasy and humid, in turn I felt slippery and clammy. The evening’s events passed me by, we had a party that got pretty wild (or at least it sounded wild as me and Ally went to bed just after the countdown, hardcore sleep scene). I don’t know which Hamer brother it was but around 2am someone came in shouting beastmaker and threw a vodka filled melon into my room. The house got a bit damaged in the ensuing merrymaking/dancing topless to the shit that is flo-rider but the young wads cleaned up the house better than it was originally, shout out to Pete for fixing the broken chair with his tree surgeon hands. New Years Day was about eating.

On Monday it seemed as if the rain dance of New Years Eve had halted the great rains of 2011 (for 24 hours) and the whole world went climbing. It was slightly breezy and single figures cold so expectations were high as we drove over to the punterdome of Birchen Edge. Strange crag this, 95% of it is steep polished hiking, then 4% annoying VS cracks that I would certainly fail on and 1% interesting under-graded bouldering. As those twonks occupying Wallstreet or whatever would say, we are here for the 1%.

Whilst everyone else cruised Hornblower, I got tangled up in the rigging and was finding the cross over to the higher sidepull particularly taxing. Jo then showed me a way of getting my weight right under the gaston so it became a controlled move rather than an uncontrolled fall, a few more footwork tweaks and I had the slopey break in my greasy mitts with a tricky rock up leading you into easy ground. Gem. It felt a far cry from the V4 awarded in the BMC guide, more akin to 6c+/7a. From here everyone had a stab at gritstone megamix which looks high but has a flat landing and we made a pad haven. I say everyone had a stab, Billy didn’t because his fingertips are made out of butterfly’s wings apparently and he suffered a horrendous flapper. I was goosed so floundered at the lip, but James and Steve sent it and from the effort exerted it appeared this too might be under-graded at 7a. I wouldn’t rush back to Birchen and this is only my second visit, in retrospect it does have quite a good circuit and I would go back for Gritstone Megamix but something is wrong with birchen and I don’t know what. I think it might be the played out nautical theme, along with some cheedale themes, THAT MAKE ME SICK. One or two is fun but this 20 too many, it’s like being stuck in a boring dads party and the speakers have just blown.

Went to Noodle Inn on London Road for tea, really nice food with single portions big enough for two and to top it off there is free ice cream at the end. Jackanackanory. Only downside is that it’s only ‘bring your wine’ with their beer costing quite a bit, to me that doesn’t work, “oh I’ll have a lovely glass of pinot with my shredded duck” yeahhhhh right. Actually, rice wine. I stand corrected . . . by myself.