Monday, 31 January 2011

away days

Had two weeks off.
sucked.
seeing mate go off to Afghanistan
sucked.

anyway, roaches on Saturday we went to the Nth cloud and again like the skyline it has some of the best grit I've had my hands on. bullet hard, featured and a great colour to boot. Swivel Finger to start and it took me a few goes to stop an unruly foot skitting but felt great on the penultimate go. Had a look at a buttress we'd seen from the road and quickly realised it was the Judge dread/Jules buttress of the consumed 'new shit' fame. Went all 2011 and checked out the routes on my smart phone as we were sans guidebook. Pillar of judgement, E4 5c, on the right arĂȘte looked like the one and Steve had the bottle to go for it, basically a solo until after the crux it looked great and I have footage that will make it onto the world wide soon. Next came wings, after a train up prelude and watching Oaks get rescued I decided to leave it but got some dope camera angles of Steve prancing about. Onward to Entropy's Jaw and a quick run up 'Wild Thing' (what a starting move!) had a go at ground up'ing the jaw and it's a weird one as the fall (read: jump) is unpredictable, Steve opted for the traditional and nutted it up while I opted out. Finish at tetris block, the 7a on the end did not get sent by me or oaks but the shapes are some of the best. Next time then.

To the stride on Sunday, chilled easy circuit and then some futile attempts on cave right (I don't really want it, and if you don't there no point in setting off). watched Steve on dry wit and grizzly, painful pain-full rock round thar. Quick jog across to Razor roof, one almighty knuckle scraper later and I had it done finally. Steve said it was due to executuion, a characteristic I admire but am grossly lacking in.




review of the weekend as follows: Staffordshire grit is best, I am a bad boulderer and we need spotter set-up beta for the ledge on art nouveau to prevent it becoming death bivouac.


edit of the clips on the way once my computer stop being all show and no go (bails section shaping up brilliantly)

Thursday, 20 January 2011

bad weather book-ends

. . .or so it seems anyway. We have had crisp dry days all week with clear skies, work has been quite depressing because of this and it does appear to crap out come the weekend with sickening regularity.

Anyway, Monday went to the foundry and got thoroughly trashed. It is interesting how the different style of set-up/route setting there leaves a unique burn out on the body, I feel like I have worked my body there more rather than climbing skills 101 which seems to be what I try at the Works (I could just be skipping past the powerful problems mind). Last night went to the works but it was very busy and I just cherry picked problems I knew I could do, this is good and bad (see Jerry's comments in stone love). Should set up the beastmaker/master soon when Steve brings it over, late-shift week should hopefully become morning beasting week and with this come the spoils of war.

Fingers crossed weather wise for Sunday, hopefully convince a driver that Froggatt is a good shout, get on Artless and Downhill Racer finnally. I wonder how many bold slabs there are left to do until I actually have to get stronger (I think there are hundreds so should be safe). Continuing the highball buzz I've finnally put up a Noaks video of him cruising DIY slab, a problem that has rapidly become a personal nemesis. Noaks and Billy are two of the Hull boys who will most likely make the leap to Sheffield in September, both keen as 'owt and both annoyingly apt at climbing. Ah well, the dog needs a rabbit rart?



and a banger



see you

Wednesday, 12 January 2011

a lesser man

I've been quite ill recently, just like everyone else. Steve had it quite bad as well and he strongly stated a lesser man would have perished. anyway, working week was wack and I had to work Saturday which was a major bum out. Fortunately, the weather didn't look too good/I didn't go mental. Had a bit of rough cough and head clag but felt like climbing was becoming a distant memory so went to the works. Place was busy and saw a few people I met at apt camp site which was cool, climbed like a chump which wasn't. flaked out when I got back in and my housemate plied me with some night nurse. woke up 12.5 hours later feeling 12% better so went out with Lee (beta guides) and his crew. Wandered around the woods at froggatt, saw indoor fisherman for the first time, now there IS a route. Felt too crap on everything, puntered up sunset slab and motorcade which became the highlight. lowlight being a foothold breaking on White Noise F.M, I don't think it affects the route, just looks ugly for now. So all in all this is a bit of a useless post but I am better now and glad I struggled through and got out even at death's door.







c u

Monday, 3 January 2011

curtor redge/rowbar edocks

Had a heavy new years then slid off back home, went to Steve's for the now traditonal mask-a-pony tea and the daily consumed consumption. Sunday 2nd, a new year for fresh starts, or not. Drove out with Mason, sick Laura and Ramadanman heading for gardoms but after hearing it was like the eiger parked at curbar. Messed around the usual bloc and pit, couldn't pull hard so just went up and down that arete for cheap thrills, while people sent/got saw off early doors.


(a happy bunch with Steve on the arete, Alex on the doors. Picture stolen from Beta guides again)
Bit of a plan paddy and we bum rushed it over to baslow for a look at 'hot ziggerty'. Having recently purchased the froggatt bmc guide and seeing a glowing recomendation for this I was excited to have a look. A dark quarried wall, it doesnt look promising, but stacking pads and having a feel of the moves the climb reveals it's quality. Positive holds at a great height with a nice sequence (once spoon fed).

Another night out cut short ending in partridge appreciation and its Monday. Went to Rowtor rocks, very interesting druid set-up complete with caves, arm chair and unfortunately horrible graffiti from less beardy modern scrubbers. Warmed up on chip shop mantel, including a heroic sideways lob from myself (all part of a good honest warm up). I cooled down never to warm and watched Steve climb a few great V8's and Al fight a good fight on bus stop mantel. The yogurt hypnotist is a strange one, essentially the supporting beam to a druid's kitchen, looks great and I look forward to a spring raid. Popped in one of the little dwellings, looking around with my phone light there was a random man just stood in the corner a la blair witch and its fair to say we entered brown town, tourists are mad, he must have been stood there in the dark for ten minutes waiting to scar his kids.

This week
- Finger injury leveled off at mere slight annoyance, ok once taped.
- It's been cold and feels colder now
- ready for 2011 ticklist to be made in between the hate calls at work
- computer back soon, new videos and extended project on the cards
- V7 next weekend

heres an edit and a t'op t'une (this was a shop in the top deck of a shopping center in Hull, bad)








see you