Monday, 28 November 2011

Burt Backoncrack

It’s been quite some time since my last post, nothing much has happened in the meantime. Climbing wise I haven’t been making any giant leaps but there has been a steady improvement, I feel stronger in the pipes than before and i'm finally using my heels a lot better. This is due mainly in part to climbing with Jo and James, Sheffield’s most psyched couple. Joble are dark horses, watch this space. Its good to have a critique and it was soon made clear I was letting myself down by inefficient footwork and just plain avoiding working on shoulders/biceps, it quickly became apparent I can’t even hold a one arm lock whilst trying to finish Punker Buster in Tom’s cave and falling off the jug on little extra direct repeatedly.

The seasons are not very obvious these days but when it was hot we went to the tor and now its turning cold…. we go to the tor. The lucky thing is I love the tor, a case of Stockholm syndrome possibly. To mix it up we have made visits to Conies Dale a recently discovered craglet. I have come to realise over my years of climbing that I am a bit of a fascist when it comes to rock, and as rock goes Conies Dale looked set for Treblinka. Limestone Spanish brickwork is the best way I can describe it - It looked like a little cow dale. I wasn’t impressed and it didn’t help that it was condensing like a murfucker. Nevertheless the one dry line we found, a 7a over on the left near the dry stone wall, is excellent and now has the lofty position of possessing Guy’s favourite limestone hold - a perfect fingery pinch. The other lines look similarly righteous but were wet so I am excited to return next year, rock movement rules at the end of the day and holding the swinggggg was nice, real nice.

I also went to Fontainebleau for the first time in early October and yes I have to admit, it’s the best place I’ve climbed but rather surreal; more on that in a separate post to come.

idiot at home

Grit climbing has been limited due to unreasonable seasonal temperatures and god awful weather. Plantation trips have been thwarted by overly keen sunshine making crescent arĂȘte feel like a heroic endeavour and my first trip to Stanton Moor resulted in a great sleep on the mats under Brad’s rib, then a tourist trip to Spare rib (what an amazing feature). I felt guilty at Rowtor on Sunday as the slightest hint of damp makes some parts crumble away with ease, luckily I had poisoned myself with Weedkiller traverse earlier in the day so I couldn’t pull on anything save for ‘The Line’ (jump start), a soft 7a mantle. Limestone progression has been more evident and even though the ticks are not coming the process is becoming much more enjoyable, I think I am learning to redpoint through bouldering. I couldn’t even start Basher’s problem early in the summer and through working undercuts it’s now piss the left hand way up to the last move which felt wild going with the right hand but obviously ended the best way for me. I’ve never had projects but now I have long, short and mid term goals at the tor.

didn't fake this one like the almscliffe shots

My short term is Weedkiller traverse which I now have in overlapping halves. I like the length of this problem and for someone with a memory as damaged /savaged as mine it’s a real struggle remembering what to do! I will climb this, and in the updated guide it is now 7b - cashback.

My mid term goals are a number of links, Weedkiller into bashers, perverse traverse and perverse into bashers right hand.

The long term goal is Powerband. Up to the first of the pinches is steady for me and is bad ass feeling strong on open pockets, from there it quickly feels impossible and the strengths need to finish this are invaluable to climbing, the noble lock and the honest core. I do however have apprehensions about the infamous last move, I can’t hold it or move from it in isolation at my current level of ability. Watching Steve and James on Powerhumps & Staminahumps respectively has inspired me for the L type links as well.

Joble on the tor thinking stone

So to round off a wandering useless filler post, Im moving into the house that crush built soon with Alisha and feel it will bring a stronger focus to my climbing much needed structured approach to training/execution, as well as a double bed which I didn’t think I would miss but I have. Also, whilst getting mangled is still highly enjoyable, realisation has dawned that once a month is more than enough to satisfy and I feel better on the whole because of this, getting on at 25 now (although it’s the works party and an STI party this month, its Christmas time).

Here is a run off of current bangers I have been enjoying and watching.

Ahh dubstep and the xx are completely played out but much like pasta bake I keep coming back for more. I am a fatty chubby year 8 bully victim.

staminaband attempt from Guy Van Greuning on Vimeo.