Tuesday, 24 May 2011

going off like the gza

Like my old pet hamster this blog is showing no signs of life. I'm going to put this trip on hold until my computer is fixed and I've moved house. It's cool to read but its cooler to see so id like this to be a vent for media Ive made/taken.

Limestone season means less ticks but stronger fingers, all is good.

Monday, 2 May 2011

Do we get one summer?

what have I been doing?

I had big plans for the bank holiday weekends that have just past us, positives and negatives from both.

Started off with a planned trip to North Wales with Ramsden, our intended destination was Clogwyn D'ur Arddu i.e. CLOGGY!!!!!!!!! After a long and tired drive from Sheffield we arrived (1am) at our 5-star hotel bedroom (nant peris carpark) The floor didnt feel so bad and the stars were really impressive to see. 

room with a view

We were going to bivy up on cloggy for the night so had a lot of stuff to take, with steve not down with all this light mountain gear and me being skint it was a heavy load, as you can see

After a barbaric slog half way up the tourist path to snowdon we broke away from the fighting famlies/adventurous first dates and got to Cloggy, one of the most impressive sights of my little climbing life.
We set off up troach an E2 5b taking the impressive face right of the more impressive Indian Face. The first VS pitch felt hard and the climbing unfamiliar, I wanted the main pitch but after a false start handed the ropes to Steve as I was in over my head and I knew it, following Steve up I was glad I made the choice I did = I was knackered and went off route. I finished up the arete into the sun and we basked for a bit before abbing into the cold cold gully that housed the axe and shrike etc. Rammers climbed the Axe, intimidating and inspiring to the same degree, a long pitch that he comfortably lead even sitting down at one point. I didnt second, I have aspirations that include that stonker. After getting drunk on one beer we went to bed on the grassy meadow and woke up 12 hours later. The day after we climbed white slab, steve taking the crux and I the long 5a pitches. Felt great to be leading big routes again and felt confident route reading/handling dodgy rock.

Yesterday I went to a baking hot millstone on the bus and did nothing, saw some Italians climb Edge lane/White wall/Londow Wall while I failed on both techincal master and conan the librarian, they are definetly font 8b. Today I went to a baking hot bank holiday Stanage and did a cool HVS then failed on another. Time for sport and big trad.