Thursday, 31 March 2011

The anticlimatic slaying of a nemesis: Rivelin

walk to work in the rain, it dries perfectly. Bus to town, bus home. Nothing of note today (yesterday I saw a lorry get trapped under a railway bridge)

Waited for the Citroen bullet to make an appearance and drove off to Rivelin seeking shelter from a windy South Yorkshire. after several unintentional fly-pasts we parked up and lugged the pads up into the birch forest. I carried Steve's second prototype pad, a large taco with a sweet shag-carpet feature, its the size of a house but as light as a mouse.

The sun went in and we climbed about warming up on the great quarried faces behind the pinnacle. Having not been for a long time I showed Steve Acid Rain, the high(ish) V5 arête . From a few posts back you can see I spent an entire session on this one problem, it was warm sure but the amount of times my right foot popped wasn't funny (and I laugh at faliure, trust). This time I had one go with old method and guess what? fell off. Steve then got on, I gave him the numbers up to my high-point and he hustled the top finding a smaller crimp to lock down on comfortably reach the sloping ledge at the top. Flash.

I headed up to my glass ceiling, right foot smear, right hand pinched on arête and find the balance to bring the left foot high to a thin break. Calm down, get the the foot, and all the limbs in use, at the right percentage of weight distribution then drag your centre of gravity up with you to the nestle the crimp, lock, right foot higher smear and a little lunge for show.

Round to the wobbly wall area as Steve had intentions on Europe after Rain an old-money E4. The landing is quickly beccoming a slanted gully so we set the pads up in a sliding sequence akin to Total Wipeout. After a fall from the last holds Ramsden rock and rolled the moves and grabbed heather.

I did Wobbly wall which should be called knobbly wall because the holds are real nice.

Tuesday, 29 March 2011


Consolidation is the name of the game at the moment, with a sub-title of 'calm the fuck down Guy'

I worked on Saturday until 1pm and some kind chap gave me a lift into town from the bad side of Sheffield(I ain't judging) into town. Caught the castleton peasant wagon over to Bamford Edge and did the long slog up to the crag, thoroughly knackered and pissy by the time I got there. My first time up there and I liked it, it does feel wild with an amazing outlook from the great buttress end overlooking majestic ladybower reservoir (they sunk an entire village to make it and also practised the famous 'dambusters' raid there). Climbed a few bits and bobs waiting for a couple of 'teams' to finish on gargoyle flakes, went up and found it very fun if a little disjointed but really good and non-awkward like many grit VS climbs can be. Case in point being Wrinkled wall, awkward step-up, meant to do the crease but it felt greasy and my hands emit grease at the best of times. Ran home and went out on the night, fell asleep on the squat half-pipe and rode home pissed at 8am (I will stop riding drunk, I've heard nasty stories)

Sunday, team posh boys came over from Hull and we went to Harpur hill the limestone sport quarry, what a massive dump. However it has one of the most inspiring lines I've seen, Cairn. So Harpur Hill is a roundabout with a massive swing in the middle basically. Didn't even try cairn in the end, just topped it once and wilted, the nights excesses stripping me of any desire, I will go back, strangely. Oaks climbed it first redpoint after a sub-10minute practise. He went up it brilliantly and it was a pleasure to watch how good he is getting, I have a picture on my phone I'll put up later.

Monday night after work went to Curbar in the woods for some thrills, climbed some great overlooked gems  but a highlight being 'Black nix wall'. Didn't climb it very well, quite shaky and nervous with shallow breathing being a real problem but got up it and achieved a memorable memory falling into a jug as I looked down for my landing.

Steve then climbed camel ticks, looks great and committing. Will be back to this little bay to lead rat scabies, horrid name, wicked route.

Tonight, me and Rammers popped over to Stanage High Neb, got unreasonably scared and ticked the VS classic High Neb buttress. Moving on climbed a lovely vdiff up some twin cracks, cant for the life of me remember what it was called. Then went up 'fate' in the middle of the impressive-looking slab, good honest pockerteering with a low crux but very close to the cracks on either side and a tad artificial because of it. Went to look at No More Excuses, the striking bouldery E4 that looks tameable with mats and good senses. unfortunately the run of good weather started to end as we climbed around this area and an attempt would have been a waste of time for either of us, especially Steve as I burnt him off on 'Pig's Ear', a rare-joy.

High Neb is a wonderful area, buttress after buttress of solid gold hits, get there before the midges arrive and mess you up.

see you.

Monday, 21 March 2011

no bore on moor

Be gone with ye week, the weekend was here. Hot footed it back home eastwards in the Citroen bullet to see my mum a la steak and chips. Up in the morning, over to the new Ramsden crib in deepest darkest Newbald. Had a catch up with Yorkshire's most barrel looking spaniel Zack and headed off to the North Yorkshire Moors.

We had a long day planned, so started by going to Scugdale for the barker's crag end.
warmed up on the traverse area on brilliant sandstone, like a west-street lovely, all the best features were out. Steve set off on a new dimensions repeat and dispatched it like a sniper with a shotgun.

'New Dimensions' is a highball V3/4 with a committing top-out that doesn't feel like bouldering. Start on almost perfect 3-finger-drag pockets, pull into a cog shaped iron jug and cross through to bury the right hand into a high side-pull. Feet up and effortlessly guide the left hand up to the nose (Throw!) from here a truly lovely go-again move to the positive little break leaves you matched ready for the slopey mantle top-out you love watching your mates do. I got it 4th go or so, first thing I've done in a while. victory felt foreign, how sad.

no music or edit as my computer is crying some shit about counterfeit software, cry-baby. whatever, check Ramsden's cone head out!!

Steve then got on 'Grandmaster flash' the E5 6b bigger brother, having flashed it when he was less fat he set about on adding a sit start that just makes the route a much more fulfilling experience. I won't add a video as Steve will probably use it in a moors film that's in the pipeline, suffice to say it'll make you drop your shit and head for north yorks badlands.

We then got lost in the moors and the day ended.

Puntered around at 'illstone/Lawrencefield with Billy, Dad and Brad the day after and then won the pub quiz, get in.

stay frosty

I wish I could film a Buoux video to this

Tuesday, 15 March 2011

This season is the reason!

In August when I moved here I was still up in the air, battling with life's big and meaningless questions. Then I started selling chemicals to poor landlords and my summer slipped away. Autumn came and was gone, my massive sigh of disappointment in the working life had cleared the tree's, ready for winter.

Winter was long. Climbing victories became few and far between with a love of the outside the only thing keeping me from packing it in and going back to skating.

Now its spring, It's not as hard to get up for work and its crisp and dry.

First trip out after work, dreams realised. Went to the sud of Burbage with Steve and he took me to some warm-up area I hadn't seen before, a quarried bulge and playground arête. These warm-ups have subsequently now left me feeling confident of myself again and a happy fact, I can only get better from here now.  
Rushing around we trotted off to the left end and desparete, a truly striking line.  As we were robbed of light, Steve was robbed of the tick as he couldn't work out the top and took the now finely tuned plummet to padded firma. It's joyful hellish compression, a committing smears-to-chest move to lay one on for the top hold. Then you're just left a top-out with an exciting consequence, get on it! I know I will! I wandered off up to a chalked up arête nearer the edge and got my cheap thrill, layed off on the steeper side holding the weighted smears in balance and rocking around onto the slab, real nice.

The nights are getting longer

In less poetic terms, we were proper shit with organisation, brought fuck all chalk with us and no brush. Planning to fail man.

see you (with media as well, good lovely easy media)

and a real uplifting video

Thursday, 3 March 2011


when I played sunday league football  back in the dark ages I played for one of the better teams in the area, Cherry Burton FC. As the seasons wore on I got to see some actually really great football, but mostly from the sideline, by the end of the season I was shit hot at distributing oranges rather than kick-ups. I'd go on at left back, fuck it up, then get pulled back off to watch the naturally gifted kids do the business. So its funny now, 10+ years on and those same feelings come back to me.

Took on the some extra work to try and make a dent on the overdraft and ended up with a 12 days straight, I couldn't hack it so bugged out, took a day's leave and went to Rivelin. The week's bad weather broke on that day and I had sun on my back trundling along up through the trees, promising. Warmed up on the usual suspects and went to look at moontan, gopping, went to acid rain. . . . and there I stayed for the rest of the day getting spat off. expert techniques were employed (waiting for shade) and I was still plummeting. Around 25 goes in all. Went to get the bus home, saw a rat go splat in front of me, bad vibes all round.

This week I've been at work but Mikey G, over from fort Bangor, and Steve went out on a classic mission and some great deeds were done (slackers x2 flash, Cool moon HP solo, Ulysses or bust and Committed GU, Brad Pit, White wand, Don). I'm stood on the sideline watching. With football I sacked it and found other things you couldn't be subbed in, this time I feel made of better minerals so its just inspiring not saddening. Can't wait to get out!