Working till 8pm on a Friday night and I'm feeding my own anticipation for the weekend's climbing. This means a dangerous game of cat and mouse with work's IT department trying to find climbing sites that break the firewall. I've sussed it.
Drink and sleep and when the morning comes far too quickly so do Billy, Oaks and Brad. I settle the young ones with that crazy hunter using golden eagles on human planet, a fine fine show that amazes me but does not make me feel guilty for the trappings of modern living like others in the genre have (except the blind Nepalese woman).
where was I? oh, yeah got a fat man's breakfast from Grindleford and went to Froggatt. Aiming for artless, warmed up in the playground and on Joe's slab which is a perfect warm up in mind and body for it's larger brothers that surround it. Decided to do Long John's slab again, the moves felt easier and I felt progression from summer, this should be a done deal obviously but I haven't felt it recently. We moved over to Artless, a striking line and a good height. We opted to highball it in keeping with fashions of our time. I thought a rock-over, however high, would be my choice but its an out and out dyno for a diagnol hold at my height. Oaks got it third go and as he'd not done great slab before the high finish gave him the rush to the head. I tried many many times before oaks told to hang the bottom of the hold when I catch it. This is much easier and I can stab the left foot up onto the first of the ramps, rock-over about fifty percent then shuffle left foot up and lay one on for the seam, fingers digging for a crimp im a flailing mess and spot my landing like an automaton, familiar drop to earth and I'm happy not scared. Its dark at 5.45 pee em now so I'll be back after work next week, anticipation.
Went over to do Parallel Piped and tying on screwed with my head, I can't describe it. Having not tied on since Wales in November It was a foreign feeling, almost as if the placing of gear made the falling more of a possibility, like I was giving myself leeway. I like jumping, I don't like falling. This will take a bit of working out but it ain't so bad I'm fully prepared to try plus y'all don't wanna hear this stuff anyway, I'll wax lyrical when I go back and crush the filthy stinking bum wart. It was such a great day I'm not even the least bit sad its wet and I am sat here typing this having spent the day indoors at a sweaty works.
tick of the day:- Brad and his first E1 on motorcade, my first real lead in the extremes as well, it's also very very fun teaching him about climbing, the Karl Pilkington-esque wall bred youth who will burn us all off soon enough.