Tuesday, 28 December 2010

Return to nord

Got back late last night, weather looked rubbish. Got woke up by rain during the night so fell back asleep negative (dreamt about dolphin belly slap for some reason, someone had built a bunkbed under there, strange. Think I miss almscliffe). Predictably bad weather so busied myself in town, Al and Noaks were coming over so headed over to the works with Steve, very busy. Had a long session on reds, great to be climbing with Al, even if he does shoot me down, "you don't fight at all" was the killer. Recently my first finger injury has appeared (usual A2 middle finger) didn't really hold back on it today and wasn't the biggest concern but it is hurting now. Digested Dave Macca's blog, canny be arsed. So, weekend weather/plans hasn't been decided except Manchester on the eve for warehouse project sweatfest, then bangor bums coming over on the weekend. Back to work tomorow. Hopefully have some real climbing in my next post but its great to be back, and especially after climbing in a group tonight its great to be back in sheff.

Leave you with the dmm bouldering video, just everything I want from the peak at the moment, for it to be dry. Think it's by Ben Bransby but whoever, kudos for the video and music.

rinse-ing caribou at the moment but after asking more inthaknow friends got a few different tracks recomended to me, these sticking out in memory.


Saturday, 25 December 2010

The first hit

So I have started a blog, why? I am hoping it will encourage me to climb harder really. Being the narcissistic poster boy that I am, these things do help. Plus its neat looking back at what you've done so its not just willy waving (note: no willy to wave). So yeah I moved to Sheffield from Hull and this'll be the vent from now on.

Lee 'Beta Guides' Robinson took this picture of me failing (flailing?) on life in a radioactive dustbin at Burbizzle Nord, this is one of those times when I really croaked on about needing extra span but simply should have tried different methods for a longer period of time, rather than throwing the same  wack sequence at the brick wall 4-5 times and moving on. It's this characteristic of my climbing that I'd like to focus on in 2011, tenacity. I'm not strong but I ain't weak so a lot of grades are getting pummelled this year, get myself established in the mid 7's, distinctly average, sweet.

I am in the bussom of Britain at the minute with my mum's family, aka. my family. Look forward to being back up and climbing next weekend, whether my brain will be fried or not is unknown at this point. Partying on the big eve is fun no doubt, more fun than waking up early and cramming white toes into frosty 5.10s, but if I finish just one thing it'll be worth it, so just to convince myself of this fact. . .

Silk start - Steve hasn't done it so potential burn off territory there and the moves don't feel a million miles away
Captain hook - moves up to the hard bit felt piss with a heavy head so by rights this should be ka-rushed (and a free ride to 7b+ if the ukb thread on the new guide is anything to go by)
Deliverance traverse (R-L)
Deliverance - arcing swoop beta gives me ideas above my station
NBTA - shook myself off the top move last time, climbing like a quaddraspaz

So we'll see, leave you with a banger and a quote, shit I'd like to see

"If you can do a half-assed job of anything, you're a one-eyed man in the kingdom of the blind"
Kurt Vonegut

see you